Aziza, Kennedy Town

Let me begin by saying that I fully include myself in the what I am about to say. It is true that sadly too many of us still prescribe to outdated misconceptions about food, American food is burgers and hot dogs and massive portions, French food is all about butter and cream, Scottish food is all deep fr...(I can feel the Scot looking over my shoulder so probably best not to finish that statement). Thankfully these views are changing, which is in no small part down to social media and an increasing awareness of where our food comes from.

However, one of the most common misconceptions is around Middle Eastern food, which shamefully for me conjures memories of kebabs after one too may beers or poor quality, watery, flavourless humus from supermarkets. I am therefore so very grateful to the welcoming and generally superb supper that I recently enjoyed at Aziza in Kennedy Town.

An unpretentious, family run restaurant who pay homage to their Egyptian and Middle Eastern history with some very fine traditional home cooking. Whilst Francis (also a very good eatery) showcases similar flavours but in a much more modern sense, if you want an experience of what a classical Middle Eastern kitchen can produce at its best then I cannot recommend Aziza more.

Aziza is by no means a large restaurant but the staff will be as accommodating as possible which we found out when we turned up with an extra individual then we had originally booked with. But you will be greeted by some some friendly and very knowledgeable waiters!

To begin, we started with some classical mezze starters including humus and baba ghanoush. Both were wonderful and once tasted, god forbid you would ever go back to the supermarket or if you do I would imagine that you pine for the two pots you had at Aziza. Accompanied by home made flatbread we knew that if the rest of the food was as good as this we were in for a treat.

Cold Mezze was supplemented by falafel, sadly a little overcooked around the edges, and halloumi with all of the childlike squeakiness that it brings.

We decided to ask for the chef recommendations for mains and what followed was a crash course in how to make kebabs, slow cooked lamb shank and what I would imagine is the closest reflection to a Moroccan tagine you will find in Hong Kong.

We were treated to a mixed grill full of kebabs, skewers and lamb chops. The lamb chops were everything that one could want, full of delicate flavours and oomphed up by the smokiness from the grill. Honestly, I would go back just for these. The beef and chicken kebabs were similarly wonderful, if anyone would want to add garlic mayo or chilli sauce to these I would fully endorse they be mummified and placed in a sarcophagus until they knew better.

Next came a lamb shank, that tricky cut of meat that requires much care and attention to get it to that perfectly tender quality that we all love. Anything less than hours of slow cooking results in leather like meat that is no use to anyone. Azizas chef clearly knows what he is doing and the result was some of the most sublime, fragile and mouth-watering lamb I have had the pleasure of tasting. I will admit to trying to keep my reaction to a minimum so I could keep as much of this to myself as possible.

All of these were accompanied by home made couscous (no mean feat) and various salads. These were flavourful and not too heavy which made for an uplifting companion to our other main courses.

We also ordered a couple of tagines including a fish and vegetable one but by the time I got round to trying these they had been devoured by the rest of our party. Although, they did promise that they were very good!

With no room left for desert I began to talk to the various members of staff and it is clear that the entire family is behind Aziza and determined to change not only my own but hopefully as many misconceptions around Middle Eastern food as possible. I wish them only the best of luck and encourage you to let them show how good Egyptian and Middle Eastern food can be. Thankfully this about to get even easier as they are planning a new opening, watch this space as I will surely be coming back.

All the best,

The Galloping Ginger

Azia, Shop D, G/F 28 Hau Wo Street, Kennedy Town, Hong Kong