Pica Pica, Sheung Wan

An open front kitchen provides an intimate insight into the workings of the chef and his or her brigade. The simple idea of pulling down a wall and letting the customer see into this world has changed the dynamics of a restaurant. Gone are the days of the ultra-macho chef, shouting his/her way through a service, instead these open kitchens allow a chef to demonstrate the love and attention (not that this wasn’t there before) and preparation of each dish. The art of plating in a kitchen has become a more intimate affair. Chefs are also able to interact with their customers, to get direct feedback and to engage with the dinner.

Pica Pica and its Head Chef, Edgar Sanuy, have taken full advantage of this dynamic between kitchen brigade and chef. Edgar can be seen keeping a careful eye over proceedings but was also given the chance to discuss those dinners sat on the bar around the kitchen. Wandering around and bringing out a Galician steak that he was clearly so proud of that his eyes lit up. If only we had gotten the chance to taste this!

As well as creating an exceptional atmosphere, Edgar overseas some great cooking based around Spanish tapas staying true to its roots but with modern touches throughout the menu.

Nibbling our way through some classic Spanish cooking the Scot and I enjoyed a seat at the bar and thoroughly enjoyed our evening. Starting with the Iberico ham croquette. Perfectly crisped on the outside with the béchamel sauce providing a nice counterpoint. I’m a big fan of a croquette, in fact I’m a big fan of food breaded a deep fried generally and these were definitely up there with some of the better. I’d like more ham but then again I’d always like more ham.

Ajillo prawns and grilled foie grass on toast rounded off the rest of our starters. You witness the terracotta pan the prawns are served in being heated up and before the dish even hits the table the waft of prawn, chilli and garlic sets the taste buds up, you

won’t be disappointed. Boiling hot, so let it cool, the heat of the chilli is tempered by the garlic and parsley and soft meat of the prawns offer up bursts of fresh seafood flavour. Now if there was some added bread to scoop all that goodness up this would be one

hell of a dish.

Foie grass causes no end of arguments and this is not the dish to settle the argument. The pate itself is very good and grilled nicely but the toast had a texture of being stale and cooked at the start of service. Maybe this was done deliberately, maybe not, either way it didn’t work for me.

We also had a scallop dish served with broad beans and a stock, I note this is no longer on the menu which is probably no bad thing as this was the most disappointing dish of the night. I won’t write anymore.

Moving on to bigger plates and lamb ribs. These little fingers of meat are becoming more and more trendy and can be terribly overdone but I glad to report here that they are absolutely not! Chargrilled till the fat has become burnt and the meat falling off the bone these were a delight. Done right, lamb can be wonderful but there is a fine line and Edgar and his brigade have risen to the risk with aplomb. The accompanying romesco sauce was punchy and the tiny spollge of aioli that we had was wonderful but sadly not enough! The Scot and I had a fight over who would have the last one, sadly I lost….

We finished with Pica Pica surf and turn paella. It wins. It knocks it out of the park, crispy bottom, soft meat, succulent seafood, it ticks all the boxes. The wait is well worth it, cooked fresh (rather then reheated) the rice has been allowed to develop the sticky, crunchy bottom that sadly seems to be missing from many other paellas. Topped with clams, prawns, chicken this was a stunning way to the end the meal. The last dish can so often break or make a dinner and luckily Pica Pica has found the perfect way to round off some truly authentic Spanish cooking. Turns out it’s to cook a simple dish with care and attention…..who knew.

The Galloping Ginger

https://www.picapica.hk

Pica Pica

Kai Tak Commercial Building,

Shop G & H, G/F,

317 - 321 Des Voeux Rd

Central, Sheung Wan